Remembering France

It was so fun being with my "traveling to France friends" on Thursday. Of course, I'm with Valene all the time, see Karlin at Bucket Group and occasionally see Mary since she lives across the street from Valene. We had such a magical, funny time and ate ourselves to oblivion and back in France and it was fun this week to reminisce. These 5 posts are the essence of our trip. It shares all the excitement of Mary being surprised in the men's bathroom at the subway station, the beautiful man who found himself sitting next to a spikie-haired nutcase from America on the plane, the French countryside, eating, eating and more eating. If you are totally bored and have nothing else to do (i.e. almost comatose, waiting for a repairman who said he would be there 2 hours ago....) these are the links to re-live Paris with me.

http://constantgrowingamazement.blogspot.com/2007/11/oui-oui.html

http://constantgrowingamazement.blogspot.com/2007/11/paris-subways-and-van-gogh.html

http://constantgrowingamazement.blogspot.com/2007/11/marche.html

http://constantgrowingamazement.blogspot.com/2007/12/eiffel-tower-and-more-pasteries.html

http://constantgrowingamazement.blogspot.com/2007/12/au-revoir.html

Buckets and Bunnies

Another storm is suppose to come in but I'm deciding to be optimistic. I've got the table set for Easter and I'm willing all our snow to melt!

Yesterday was a great day. After cleaning with Jan, I headed off to Bucket group at Diana's. I have never been to Diana's new home and it was just lovely. I got there a little early to help out. Diana does great with her MS and is such an example of not letting that disease define who she is. She is curious about everything...and in fact, she shared that her husband said to her recently, "Why do you have to be interested in EVERYTHING?" She teaches Old Testament at LDS Business College besides being a fabulous painter and journal keeper and family history junkie. We had a great lunch (if you have never had the multi-grain rolls from Rhode's frozen dough, you need to try them. Roll the the thawed rolls in butter and let raise (forever) (okay, a long time) (what I do is let them thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then roll them in butter and they raise while we are at church and perfect when we come home.) Diana said sometimes she has had them when besides the butter, they were also sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Tenilee made some similiar for a family party - a version that we call Magelby's knock-offs (a local restaurant in Provo) and is a favorite. I'll post the recipe at the end.

After lunch, Diana did a great presentation on Minerva Teichert, the early 1900's artist. (She died in 1976.) She did the murals in the Manti Temple, a huge (and the first) book of Book of Mormon illustrations among other things. I have never been a great fan of hers until the last year when I saw an art exhibit on Christ at BYU...and one of her pictures just spoke to me. And the more I learn about her, the more I enjoy her art. Diana did a great job sharing about her life. There is currently an exhibit of her work at BYU. Valene said that if you go on Monday evenings at 6:30 (she didn't think you needed reservations), they do a great presentation for the children. It is interactive and the kids actually get to dress up and act out one of Minerva's paintings. It is only an hour long. If you don't have children, they do a presentation for adults at 7:30. All at the BYU Museum.

After Bucket, I spent the afternoon burning a cd of all the France pictures for eveyone and having pictures printed and then organizing the Ooh-La-La journal, which was my travelogue for the trip...so we all had a copy. Last night Valene had us all over for a raquellette party and to reminisce about our trip. This was really my friends...David only knew one of the husbands, and they all live in the same Ward so they are friends with each other but David was a good sport. We had a fun evening and the dinner was to die for. I might have to break down and buy a raquellette grill!

Magelby's Knock-Off Rolls

for a dozen rolls:

12 Rhode's rolls, thawed

1 cube melted butter (more or less)

3/4 c. parsley flakes

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese (I like fresh grated but the green canned stuff is ok)

a couple dashes of garlic salt

Dip your thawed roll in butter, then roll it in the mixed herbs and cheese. Place in a buttered 9 x 13 baking dish to rise nice and big. These are SOOOO good! Bake at 350 for about 10-12 minutes or until golden brown. You won't want to do just 12 unless there are just two of you!

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity Jig

I don't know if I have the time and energy to type this. It is 10:00 p.m. in Paris and only 3 in the afternoon here in Utah. We got in after a full day and night of traveling. Words cannot fully express the racing to airports...well, not in Paris because we sat in traffic for hours...4 hours and missed our plane. Since I was just a backseat "ewe" (Valene and I were the self-nicknamed sheep....we didn't drive, navigate, figure out maps or take responsibility for anything. Occasionally we'd "baaa" just because that's what we do....), I just went to sleep. It wasn't that stressful for me. There is just so much graffiti you can read on the walls (everywhere!) and so many bus drivers and people grinding teeth in their cars that you could wave at. And I wasn't good at waving in French. I was also feeling like maybe we were suppose to miss our flight so we could be there for Karlan, who took the train in, then subways to the Embassy to get a temporary passport. I was kind of figuring that our misfortune might be Karlan's blessing. And besides, it was a good nap. A 4-hour nap. We missed the flight. Did I say that? It wasn't even close. We got our rental car turned in. It was a sad, heart-wrenching farewell to Babette, our GPS. We had grown quite accustomed to her lovely accented voice as she served us well throughout our travels. She was very no-nonsense with us and shared little if any personal details about her life. We taught her the missionary discussions so that was a positive. (People who are reading this are wondering what in the heck this whole conversation is about....) Farewell, Babette. You were a wonderful guide. Your accent is darling and even when we didn't believe some of your directions, we still adored you. And I think you kind of liked us as well....



So, we manhandle our luggage up to the counter to see if we can get booked on a later flight. I knew it was a happy moment, because right by the counter was another, what? Could it be another pastry shop? And not just another pastry shop but OUR pastry shop- Paul's (say it with a French accent). It really is the BEST! And there was one...right there! It was a sign that all would be well.



And as we were checking in...a squeal "You guys!" Right at that moment, Karlan got to the counter! Tender mercy. Tender mercy. Our crazy quartet was once again united. We even had to rush to make the next plane.



How long was the flight to Atlanta from Paris? I can tell you exactly. Four feature length movies and 1/2 a lame book, 1 lunch and 1 gourmet snack, 4 drink stops and a partridge in a pear tree. Opps, forget that last part. I watched "Stardust" (wonderful), Ratatouille (I had only made it halfway through with the kiddos), The Bourne Ultimatum (I heart Matt Damon...he reminds me of my Ben) (although I really do have to just not watch the street scenes,the fight scenes, the crashing scenes....I'm really getting unable to even watch that stuff....)and whatever that movie is that is a remake of The Devil and Daniel Webster. It has Alec Baldwin in it and Anthony Hopkins. I had to get up at the end of the movie so I missed the whole redeeming part of the show. Valene filled me in on all the parts I missed on the next flight. I don't think I would care to watch it all the way through to get to the ending.



We had less than an hour in Atlanta to make our next plane. It was crazy. It was nuts. Can I just say it was not the highlight of the trip. We had to go through this declaration station, then find the turntable with our bags (far away), then stand in Disneyland lines to go through customs, then run, run, run. In case I have never mentioned this before, I am not a runner. I have feet issues. I am a slug. We are racing up stairs, lugging our carry-ons, heavy coats, purses. Racing to catch a subway to take us to the furthest concourse (of course).....then run to the end of it. I thought my lungs would burst. I thought I might die in Atlanta. I was feeling like the old woman of my future. I was feeling like I wished I were athletic. I was feeling like maybe if I had a heart attack, at least I would get to ride on a stretcher. I was telling myself to quit being a ninny and a whiner. I would have said that out loud but honestly, I couldn't breathe.



We made the plane. Mary was there first and was already realizing that her name was not on the list for stand-by. She was still talking to the desk person and motioned us to go on. The plane was only half full so we knew there would be no problem for her getting on. We didn't see her but she gets to fly business (first-class.) She doesn't even act uppity when we get to our destination because we were flying like the regular peons that we are. But she really didn't act uppidty when we got to Salt Lake because....well, they didn't let her on! We thought she was flying first class and she wasn't flying at all! We didn't even know until we landed in Salt Lake. David couldn't believe that we just left her there! It sounds kind of harsh but that's exactly what we did. I haven't even heard her story of how she got home but I felt so bad when I was crawling into bed knowing she was still in the air flying. And can I just say, can the seats get any closer in an airplane? By the end of another 4 hours of flying, Valene and I were literally crawling up the walls. Our legs were jumpy and our necks hurt and we couldn't get comfortable and no one was speaking French and we were realizing our dream was over. It was the only miserable part of the trip. Well, and then our luggage didn't make it. I think it flew later with Mary. I found it on my front porch when I got up this morning.

Bummer that it is over. But real life started immediately. I actually woke up bright-eyed at 6:00 (which I NEVER do!) and when Jan came, we hauled out all the Christmas decorations since I've already lost a week. We got some key areas done but I have tons of stuff EVERYWHERE and need to close this epistle and get to work.


But I wanted to tell about Bucket group, which was at BF Cathy's house today. Everything was decorated beautifully and we were all there....11 other women that I have grown to love during this last year we've been together. During our wonderful lunch, Cathy had us go around and tell two of our favorite Christmas memories. It was tender and heartwarming to hear a variety of wonderful traditions, family stories and thoughts. I couldn't help but again feel so blessed to associate with such fine women in my life. I learn from all of them. It was so fun to see Valene and Karlan again...after only a few hours! We were all a little groggy but ready for more!

P.S. In answer to a few questions, either in comments here or emails:

1. yes, Brandi's friend, the honey candies were WONDERFUL! Janet (say it with a French accent) had some in a goodie bag for us...the beekeeper lives just down the street. I loved them all! And I know, it was unbelievable that we would use the subway bathrooms. They were the defination of disgusting. But yes, we also used all the other bathrooms you mentioned. When you get a little older, you'll understand!!!

2. I didn't get to see the Louve. We made a list of "have-to's" with our limited time and we chose to go to the Museum d'Orsay instead. Mary really wanted to go and see the Mona Lisa but the others had been. I was happy with what we got to see so I didn't mind.

3. No, my girls don't get their presents now. They have to wait until Christmas. They have to just be patient. But know that they are "Oooh-la-la!"


4. Yes, I missed my husband. And my kids. Brandi and I are used to talking everyday and I missed my little kiddo's voices. Not one person said, "Choco-milk, Grandma?" to me all week. And Tanner. And I missed talking to my mom long distance. I missed my bed. But other than that, I could have stayed another few days. Not another week but another few days. And Clara and Olivia, do you want to play Phase Ten? Spencer, do you want to dance? Do you miss me? I miss you!!!

And yes, "Oreo" was my nickname. For my two-colored hair-light and dark. I'm telling you, those kids were creative!

5. Ann, I didn't even see the little perfume places that mix your own scents. I said something to Valene on the way home about it and she said, "I saw them everywhere!" Oh. I guess I wasn't as observant since I was eating a French pastry most of the time....

6. And thank you, Ferrill, (what a cute name!) for giving me back a touch of self-esteem about "adieu".....I thought that sounded familiar!
Okay, that's enough answers for now. Thanks for comments and questions. I felt I had friends from across the world! Now Christmas is calling......

Au Revoir

Okay, this is how blond I am. I just went in the other room with a piece of paper and asked Valene to write "Adieu" (however you would spell that) and she asked me, "What does that mean?" And I said, "You know, that is good-bye in French." Duh! Hello, French Marilyn....that is another French word that you have totally

a) messed up
b) mispronounced or
c)borrowed from another language. Valene and Spencer started laughing (and rolling their eyes...that has no language barrier)..."You mean Au Revoir?" Honestly, I was never meant to speak this beautiful language. I do not have a French ear. I have butchered it to death.

I don't even want to write this. This is my last letter from France. It was too short since we lost a day coming. I wonder where it is? I knew we would not be able to see everything there is but what I saw was all dessert. All that I had never tasted before! I'm leaving full and satisfied. Really the best part was being here with Janet and Taylor and their family. I opened my eyes that first morning and saw them all kneeling in the hallway for family prayer. You can't see that in a hotel. Janet was a wonderful tour guide after having lived here for a short while. Little Lilly, age 4, corrects everyone's French except mine. She doesn't recognize that what I am saying is attempted French. Clara is full of it. She's like a sparkler. And she is a poet, at age 8, composing on the spot as we left the Eiffel Tower last evening:

The Eiffel Tower At Night
The Eiffel Tower at night
is such a beautiful sight!
Especially when the lights are blinking
and everyone is thinking
how lucky they are to be there at night.

Clara Randall

Fabulous! I couldn't have said it better myself.

Olivia has been more reserved and is classically beautiful. She is 11. But today she let it out. Her "Rudolph" number on the "walk-across" brought the house down. I couldn't even begin to describe it here. Spencer is 13/14 and funny and sarcastic and loves to tease. I've begged him to dance with me the entire trip and he's dodged the bullet until tonight. Okay, it lasted for about 3 seconds but now I can say I've danced with a Frenchman! He is a "football" player (soccer) and is always kicking something around. Such a boy! Lilly is only 4 but she draws and colors so beyond her age. We love to hear her speak French and she has real attitude and is adorable!

Traveling with Valene, Mary and Karlan has been unreal. Such an easy, ridiculous group of women. We laugh, then laugh some more. Everyday funny things happen. Just coincidence? I don't think so...
Today was Sunday. It took almost 1/2 hour to get to Church. We had headsets and a very un-Hawaiian-looking Hawaiian missionary translating for us. What a bonus to be there for testimony meeting! The testimonies were touching, sincere and to the point. Pres. Hinckley would be proud. The people were kind and welcoming. We got to go to the "English" Gospel Doctrine where our Elder Hawaiian taught the lesson on charity. Great discussion. A lovely man and his wife from Africa asked how to handle his situation. When he goes back to his village, it is expected that he buy drinks for the entire village of men. They are all family. That is what you do. Last time he took clothing for all their children (the Ward here supplied them)(which the children needed) but the "Elders" still expected their traditional drinks. Talk about peer pressure! He, of course, doesn't drink, but he didn't want to offend the Lord by providing their "gift" but was worried how his tribe would feel (offended) if he didn't.

During Relief Society, we again had a darling translator. She is one of Janet's friends, whose name is Magali from Caledonia (by Australia.) She was so darling...her translation of the lesson was interjected by her own commentary which was very funny at times. We loved her!

Okay, let me just mention the cold. We were warned that it was cold here....but really, we've been fine until we get to Church. It was FREEZING in there! Honestly, your nose was running and I had to put my (new French) gloves on (and I wasn't just showing off!) (which I do occasionally...) If I would have had ear muffs, I would have put them on.

Again, dinner around the family table....Janet (use your best French accent when saying her name) whipped up another fabulous, traditional French meal. She boiled potatoes and chunked them, lined them in a casserole, sprinkles a little ham-like bacon on them, then I sliced a whole round of "Reblochan" cheese (made like a block of Brie) and covered the entire top. It was then baked. Served again with a simple salad with pears, pomegranites, hazelnuts and greens. For dessert, Mary made a chocolate croissant bread pudding (with caramel and banana). And if that wasn't enough, tonight Janet made crepes for us and we filled them with whatever our pleasure.

Today we made the Christmas crafts I brought for each of the kids (a Santa 12 Days of Christmas Advent) and we all cut out snowflakes to hang from their ceiling since they didn't bring Christmas decorations with them for their year here. It looks so pretty. More games. More laughter. Lots of hugs and fun stories recalled. We fell in love with all the family.

Since Karlan lost her passport, she'll take a train to the Embassy in the morning really early. She's hoping to make our plane at 11:00 but I'm not sure she will. Mary has to kind of go on standby since her ticket is a buddy pass (her husband flies for Delta.) Valene and I are taking all the luggage since Karlan can't take any luggage into the Embassy....isn't that interesting? Good thing she read that online.

It sounds like a storm is coming in outside. The elements are letting us out with a storm. It is too late to spoil anything for us. France is everything I thought it would be.

So, Au Revoir.......(not Adeiu...) I think we will find our lost day on the way home. I'm anxious to see my family...to hug my husband and family. How blessed I've felt to be able to take this trip with such delightful friends. What can I say but "Ooh-La-La!"

The Eiffel Tower and More French Pastry

Just a few more days here and I don't think I'll fit in my seat on the plane going home. Except we have walked (like power walking...hello, Karlan...just because you're ten years younger than me and have just been through chemo, you don't have to make me LOOK bad.) The walking hasn't been as strenuous as the stair climbing. I think they invented stairs here. Stairs and stairs and more stairs. I think "stairs" might be a new French word to add to my vocabulary. But if all the stairs mean we can eat yet another French pastry, then I'm all for them. Bring them on!

Janet got a sitter for Lily today so Janet and her two daughters, Clara and Olivia, who were both darling, entertaining and non-whining, and the four of us went again to Paris. Karlan is our headmaster/subway figure- it- outter and she has done an amazing job. She got us to the famous street Champ d'Elyees ( I don't even have anything here to check for the correct spelling) which is a pricey street like Rodeo Drive which has Notre Dame at one end (way far away) and the Arch d'Triumph at the other. The Arch, which has unknown soldiers buried there...is wonderful. Napoleon's ashes were also carried through it. The engravings and sculpting on it is suppose to depict French victories but that is contrary to David's knowledge of the smallest book ever written....detailing French military successes! But regardless, the Arch is also home to the largest round-a-bout in the world. I'm glad we weren't driving. Of course I was glad "I" wasn't driving since that would have REALLY been a disaster but I'm glad Mary (pronounced "Mah-re" now according to French Lily) didn't have to drive either! The people watching was wonderful. We are still squealing so I think we all have "TOURIST" stamped on our foreheads. Several funny moments. On one subway this morning, a singer broke into song (and of course passed the cup afterwards)- Janet and the girls were at one end of the car and we were at the other....and I could see Janet looking down in panic....she thought it was Valene! (her sister...she has reason to be afraid.)

Also, using the really icky bathrooms at the subway station. Since no one was there, we used both the his and hers. Mary was using the "his" and Karlan and Valene said they would keep watch. But they started talking and this man walked in on Mah-re! He threw his arms up into the air as he turned around (French exclamation point!) and Mah-re came charging out "I thought you guys were standing watch!" Karlan and Valene were laughing so hard. "We thought at least you'd lock the door!"

So many funny moments. Some you would have to be tired to appreciate. Like Valene speaking to a French woman who didn't speak English. Valene spoke English to her but with a French accent. Something about "her dahhh-tur" (her daughter) Karlan and I looked at each other like, "What is she doing?" then burst out laughing. Our language skills are ridiculous!

We walked and stair stepped and subwayed and walked and walked until we found a place for Karlan to get a new passport picture. Ate a few more pastries to keep up our strength. Then!

As Addison (my almost two- year- old would say...) "Ta-Da!!!" The Eiffel Tower! Oh, heart be still! We got there just before dusk. We stood in a line that would make even Disneyland weep. We didn't care. We laughed the entire time. The little girls were saints. I might kidnap them and bring them home with me. Then it got dark, and once an hour, the lights twinkle like a light show! It is over-the-top beautiful. The view from up high was beautiful and windy. I could see the Paris of my dreams. We just kept squealing like the bunch of ninnies we are. Outside of the Eiffel Tower are all these hawkers selling souvenirs. Like little Eiffel Towers all lit up. Karlan kept saying, "Who in the world buys that stuff? I mean, REALLY, who would buy that???" So I had to sneak and buy one to put under her Christmas tree....she'll love it!

There is so much more to say but it is very late here although it is only 4:00 p.m. in Utah. I'm pooped after a day of trying to keep up with macho woman Karlan. Gosh, we had so much fun today. Karlan's husband said the best pastry shop is a tiny one on the Champ...however you spell it street. We FOUND it! And guess what! It was!!! Okay, I'll try not to mention the food once more here tonight.

I can't wait to get home to share some more highlights. Wait! Did I say I can't wait to get home? I was just kidding....I'm not tired of one second here yet! But it is past bedtime and tomorrow is Church in France. It will be a wonderful day. But already we are rearranging our suitcases to make room for all our stuff. I have a feeling this dream will be ending soon..

The Marche

Okay, I'm starting to get this French language thing. They have pulled the wool over my eyes long enough! All those words sounding so uppity. When I was growing up, one of my favorite memories was heading to Spokane to shop at the Bon Marche for school clothes. Well, today we went to the "Marche" (Mar-shay) Guess what it means? You're right. Market. So then I asked, "What does Bon mean" thinking it was going to be something spectacular. It means "good."
Good for Pete's sake. I always thought it was something special to go to the "good market?" How creative is that?

In spite of already having my nose out of joint, the local "marche" was fabulous. The parking lot where we parked the other day was turned into a mass of outdoor booths, fresh vegetables and meats like you would not believe. Everything was displayed beautifully. One man in one of the vegetable booths yelled in French the entire time, making it carnival- like. I found one treasure after another but I can't share them because Brandi, Tenille and Marci might be reading this. Can I just say, "Aren't you glad I'm your momma" And we shopped all the shops around the square. Now they are REALLY glad that I'm their momma. I mean REALLY GLAD if you know what I mean!

Sad note, though. This poor little village has had it share of heartache recently. A car hit one school kid and killed him, then a couple of days later a bus hit a couple of other ones. At least one died in that accident, one is paralysed, two still in intensive care. Today was the funeral of one and all the streets around the square from the school to the church which happened to be on the corner of the square was filled with people. All the school children, crying in each others arms. There were so many people waiting for hours for the opportunity to file through the church. The boys entire football team (soccer) stood outside with their jerseys tied around their necks, each holding a rose. It just about broke your heart to watch. It went on for hours. Grief is universal. No one is immune. This will be added to my memories of France.

At the marche, we bought fresh ingredients, once again for ANOTHER outstanding dinner. For other things we needed, we ended up at the grocery store with underground parking (you have to put a euro in the handle to get a grocery cart, like getting a cart at the airport, but when you bring it back, you get back your coin.) Many of the stores don't have bags and you are expected to bring your own or buy one. Janet had given us each our own "French" goodie bag and in it, she enclosed our shopping bag for general shopping and a fancier one for our Paris shopping. I filled them both quickly (Again, girls, don't you love your momma? Even your momma-in-law?) So I had to buy a couple more. I was excited to be bulldozed by a pushy French woman trying to butt in line in front of me (I had been warned) but I stood my ground! I just laughed at her and in my best French, wowed her with my command of the language:
"French Dip, get outta my way!" I just didn't French Roll out of her way. If she would have given me any more hassle, I would have made French toast out of her. I am woman, hear me roar.

Tonight for dinner, we had fresh shrimp, baked salmon, fresh spinach with champagne mushrooms, banquettes, cous-cous, and a pastry for dessert. Oh me, oh my!!!

Tomorrow...dare I say this again.....Paris AGAIN!!! We are driving in, going to a huge flea market (I know, marche, they aren't tricking me by throwing in some English!), then hitting some more highlights, then we are going to see the Eiffel Tower at night. Oh Man!!!! Sigh! I might explode just thinking about it! I might explode if I eat one more croissant.

It is time to go to bed again. My timing is still goofy so last night, although I was exhausted, I twiddled my thumbs for two hours (even with a sleeping pill), and finally took another one. I think my inner clock is saying, "Don't you miss one SECOND of your time here. Stay awake! Practice your great language skills!"

Oh, I forgot that Janet took us to her favorite creperie for lunch. The owner was expecting us and had everything set up when we got there. The crepes were different than any others that I've ever had....all different flours and textures. We got Janet's favorite which had a little ham and cheese inside (not much) and an egg on top. Then we tried a couple of dessert ones. Most of the shops that sell crepes serve them with Nutella, which is big over here. Great with sliced bananas and ice cream.

Okay, I'm waddling off to bed. Well, as soon as I can clear ALL the packages from shopping today off my bed. ARE YOU LISTENING DAUGHTERS??? Love you all!

Paris, Subways and Van Gogh

I have written lengthy entries in our "Ooh-La-La" journal so I won't repeat too much here but I just wanted to post that Paris is....Paris is....Paris is like walking onto a movie set. It was like being at MGM only for real. The streets are so narrow...people drive one hundred miles an hour, motorcycles weave in and out and scare you to death...there are beggars everywhere holding out cups. Speaking French. They are so much smarter than me! We have eaten enough bread and crepes and chocolat croissants to be over our weight limit for the plane. It is hard to be an inconspicuous tourist when you are squealing every other moment and taking pictures of everything and begging passersby to take our picture (I don't because, you know, I am mute.) But the highlights of today were:

-driving to Paris, then taking the subway into Paris- figuring out where to go and when to get off was almost a breeze (well, for me since I have taken no responsibility for ANYTHING!)- Mary is driving. Valene was bumped from navigator before we got out of the rental car parking lot. Karlan is doing a great job and today her Victoria, British Columbia French kicked into first gear and she was anxious to talk to everyone. She's such a bubble. And Valene is always breaking into song. It is not often that I am the quiet, more subdued one in a crowd.

-Notre Dame. It is kind of a nice gig to be able to buy indulgences. To buy a candle and pray for intersession with Saints. Even Joan of Arc. The architecture was beyond believable. The Cathedral was absolutely beautiful. I'm so thankful for our intercessor, Jesus Christ.

-We went to the Musee d'Orsay. Several people told me it was their favorite museum in Paris. It was unreal. Monet after Monet after Monet after Picasso and Pissaro and Cassatt and Gauguin and on and on and on. But the moment....was....in a room filled with Van Gogh. I have this sympathy and passion for Van Gogh. Not necessarily his art because I think "Heck, I could do that!" But through reading so much of his life history and writing many poems about him, I feel such compassion for this man who was so troubled. When I saw his self portrait and other paintings of which I was so familiar, I really did choked up and get misty. There were so many Monets but I feel "tricked" by them...they seem so peaceful and calming but he made life almost unbearable for all those around him. I haven't forgiven him yet. But Van Gogh....Van Gogh brings out the mother in me. I want to wrap this sorry, troubled man in my arms and say, "You can be in our family. Let me feed you. Let me make you laugh." I love this haunted man.

-from there, we hiked three thousand miles and steps, up and up and up, to be in the artist's square. It was fun and artsy and funky and creative. No one got pickpocketed (although we were warned) and it was just like the Paris I had imagined as a child.

- we had a near death...well, not quite...on the subway coming home. It stalled with just a few of us on it...in the tunnel...with unsavory people on board (they weren't us...)...and one graffiti artist who was going to town and I was unsure of what else he was capable of. ("Where's his mother!!!" Does she know what her son is doing???) The lights went out and we were trapped. We almost had to push Valene's head between her legs but luckily she pulled out of it. She wasn't singing any more! We survived. It was an adventure trying to find the parking garage where we parked the car..since we came up from the subway the wrong way. And we thought to find the croissant crumbs we had trailed. But they were gone. We still survived.

-when we got home, Janet, our angel-hostess, had a lovely meal of quiche and salad with fresh toasted hazelnuts on top. Hazelnuts are everywhere and in everything. A fun, different experience.

-Karlan has misplaced her passport and is in tears. We are hoping for a miracle but we can proceed for replacement tomorrow if need be. I hate lost things. She is feeling that her brain power is not 100 % since chemo but I'm telling you...you should have seen her steeplechasing those million stairs today. And me? Me, who hasn't had chemo but is a slug? It was pitiful. I was the definition of "huffing and puffing"...but I conquered them! I didn't burst a lung. I lived to write about it!

Again, chocolats on our pillow. Ahhhh, Janet you are wonderful. Her family is absolutely enchanting. I've fallen in love with them all!

Sweet dreams. Mine are in chocolat..... French chocolat.

"oui-oui"

My French is improving so much I'm sure most people think I'm native!!! I have sudden recall of other French words I knew but had forgotten I knew. Words like French twist, French...hmmm. already I've forgotten what I used to know. Most of the time I play mute. On the flight over, I didn't have to play. The airline changed our seating assignments so Karlan and Valene sat in one place and I sat in another. They tried to ask people politely if they would like to change with me but they looked at them densely in French and just shrugged their shoulders. I, meanwhile, found my seat partner. He was a nice looking black man. He gestured to the seat next to him and I babbled, "Yes, that is my seat but I'm actually trying to exchange with someone in the back. And you'd better hope she's a cute little thing." He looked at me blankly and I could tell he was scared. After negotiations failed in the back, I lugged my carry- on back up front, squishing bodies and volleying with other passengers in aisles. It was not pretty (one lady's newspaper got interrupted and she started swearing in French....somehow I understand exactly what she was saying....)...and I found my way back to my seat. My seat partner graciously got up and let me climb over to my seat, stuffing my bags on the floor. I gave him a big old grin....and I could see the fear in his eyes. It was so strange....we sat by each others for 12 hours. Heavens, we even slept together. But what happened throughout that time was precious. He never smiled. We didn't speak the same language (I tried all my words on him, "Speakca'de Inglais?" "French fry? French dip?" I could tell he wasn't impressed and just a little nervous. )But....

when I was fuddling with my television, trying to get something in English....he quietly leaned over and did it for me. "Gracias" Oh wait, "Merci." And then when they brought the food, he pushed the buttons for his tray and then leaned over to do mine. I became his project. I couldn't make eye contact with him because you can't look at someone without talking, but he continued the whole trip to take care of me...even lowering my seat. Because he could tell I was an imbecile. He could tell I was a blond. He could tell, even by looking at my spikie up-do that I was a nut case. He saved me. He was a gentle giant.

So, when our trip was over, he stood up to leave but started fiddling with his phone. It was like he was purposefully delaying. I kind of knew he was worried about leaving me alone. He knew I was trouble. He still hadn't smiled in 12 hours. But this was the end. I reached up and touched his arm. I mouthed the words "thank you." He still didn't smile. He bowed to me......with elegance.

the end.

Trouble is still alive. Today we spent the day touring Fontainebleau where Janet and Taylor and family live. They are our hosts. They are magnificent. The weather was crisp, the air misty. Everything was......"oui-oui." Okay, I'm not turning into a French woman, but I can hardly speak for squealing. Tomorrow is Paris. We have already had many adventures, amazing food, and Janet puts chocolats on our pillows. This might be heaven...

We're Off....

like a herd of turtles. That is exactly what my mother (and dad) said EVERY time we all got in the car to leave, like for a family vacation. I've heard it all my life. I say it to my kids. It is a great image.

My bags are packed and ready to go. ("Leaving On a Jet Plane." John Denver. Concert with Steve B. from Idaho Falls. After the concert he bought me the ....what? Cassette? Eight Track? Album? I can't even remember. It was "our" song.....random memory....) I need to vacuum and mop my way out the door. Don't all mothers do that? Kind of like wearing clean underwear in case you're in an accident. Be prepared!!!! Cathy, in case anything should happen to me, you know the drill. Torch the laundry room and my closet. No Relief Society ladies in there to clean and shake their heads.

I called my son Ryan last night with the "final words." I usually give them to Brandi but she's let me know she's sick of them. You know, the "if I don't come back" speech. I gave David his...he can't date for a year, gave him a few suggestions of who he could marry, has to hang a giant portrait of me over the fireplace and include me in family prayer. To Ryan I had to give the instructions on how to access my obituary file and my "concluding remarks." It is pretty funny. I even have listed the food I want to be served at the funeral. Great appetizers, great salads, lots of funeral potatoes and chocolate desserts. I want everyone to eat really well. Arlene, you're in charge of that. No green jello with corn or carrots in it. No one in my family will eat it! Don't worry about the cost...David will foot the bill. He LOVES to pay for my parties!
At least I'm not as bad as Wanda Jackson, a lovely lady that died a few years ago. She even had instructions for Helga, who was speaking, of what to wear. Then my dear friend Sharen Smith, put me in charge of black umbrellas. She wanted fifty, rain or shine, at the graveside. She always liked that in the movies. We did it. I miss her....

Okay, enough maudlin stuff. I'm going, I'm really going! This is the stuff dreams are made of! I hope to check in during the week. Hope to have lots of adventures and funny fiasco's to report. Already I'm missing my husband. And today is my day to watch kiddos and I don't know if I can survive without them! But wait! The dishwasher needs to be unloaded. The vacuum is waiting. Gotta go.

Oh, I did want to say yesterday's Sacrament meeting was wonderful. It was our annual "choose your favorite hymn and why?" meeting. One song that I haven't really thought about was the Hie to Kolob song. (I can't remember the exact name. And my hymn book that is sitting on my piano is in Spanish...don't ask me why....so I can't look it up.) The man that shared it said it was his favorite because, especially the last verse, was the essence of the gospel. It was beautiful and worthy of everyone having a lookie to remind them of these beautiful words.

Oooh-La-La

I finally got to deliver the "Oooh-La-La" bags tonight. Little "let's get excited for a party" bags. Hot pink and black, of course. I made the bag stickers...everyone got a pink boa....

Well, it is a little hard to discern, but each bag had a bag of "Oooh-La-La" French kisses, an "Oooh-La-La" personalized toothbrush and toothpaste (airline size) and a feathery "Oooh-La-La" pen to write in our "Oooh-La-La" journal.

Everyone got a French film to enjoy tonight. Or tomorrow. Or never.

For me I had to change the title to "The First Time I Saw Paris!" I'm the only one who has never been.

Are you excited to come? I'll share my chocolate cherry french kisses with you!

Valene's excited!